Gel Backfill Tutorial |
Products Used: Oval Brush
Square Brush
Nail Prep
MAP Primer
Affixit Protein Bonder
Bonding Gel
Builder French White
Natural Clear
Top Gloss
Gel Cleanser |
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Prep is extremely important for preparing natural nails for product application. Push back cuticles and then scrape the nail free of any skin that maybe stuck near the cuticle.
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| Rest the finger on top of yours to give it some stability. Take your file and press right on the bottom third of the nail (or slightly above the old white) and file; remember that gel doesn't get as hot as acrylic, so you can put more pressure and speed onto the nail. File off all the old white down to - or very near the natural nail. |
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| Go around the cuticle and bevel to be sure that the entire cuticle area is smooth. Finish filing the whole nail so that shine is gone from the surface. |
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| Take the end of your file and start in the nail groove on one side of the nail; using an up and down method, file around the whole area of new growth to be sure that all the shine removed. |
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Cleanse your nail with Nail Prep and allow to dry. Optional step: Apply an acid/MAP primer and let dry. This is a fantastic aid when applying new nails or full sets, it will dehydrate and microscopically etch the nail. Apply Affixit, the protein bonder from Akzentz. Let air dry for 60 seconds. It will leave the surface shiny and sticky. Apply a layer of Bonding gel thinly. Cure 2 minutes. |
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When you put your layer of white onto the nail, if you begin with a "V" shape higher than where your smile line will be, you won't risk wiping gel so low that its down into the free edge. Use an oval brush to help prevent divits in the white.
Fill in the tip with the white of your choice (Ultra White, French White or Buider White). I use Builder white for a strong, thin white tip. |
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| Holding your brush like a pencil, draw a "U" shape onto the nail starting high on one side, and ending up on the other in one even swipe. If you need to rewipe the nail, clean off your brush by wiping it on a lint free wipe. Swipe your line until you have the shape desired. |
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| Looking at the nail from the side, you will see the white raised up over the nail. |
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| Grab a large pea sized amount of pink or clear gel onto your brush. Hold it sideways so the gel is on the left side of the brush. Place your brush down onto the nail and spin the brush to roll off the gel onto the center of the nail. |
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| Push the gel toward the left of the nail and continue pushing it evenly around the cuticle. Brush the rest of the gel down lightly creating an even surface. Fill in any gap between the white and pink of the nail bed by stringing Natural gel over the area that needs it - the gel will self level into place. |
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| Start by filing around the cuticle and circle around beveling the gel evenly to elimiate any ridges. |
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| Hold your file at an angle and look at the nail from the front (not the side as the picture shows). When you look down the front of the nail you can see how thin you can make the tip and keep a consistant thickness over the whole nail. By holding your file at this angle, you also eliminate filing down your arch. |
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| Cleanse all dust off the nail using a lint free wipe and Nail Prep. |
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Apply top gloss by pushing gel up toward the cuticle and wiping down with a smooth, even stroke. The bristles should not flare out if you are using a light touch. If you apply your top gloss too thin, or you had buffed the nail too smooth, your top gloss will shrink and reveal bald spots.
Once you have applied your top gloss to all 5 fingers, check to see if any ran into the cuticle. Wipe out with a dry, clean orangewood stick. |
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Clean tacky layer with Gel Cleanser, which has oil to rehydrate the cuticles.
A completed nail should blend perfectly into the cuticle, allowing 3-4 weeks of growth without being very noticable. The finished nail should also have a slight arch that will withstand breaking. A properly placed arch will resist breaking for up to 5 weeks. |
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| Backfill using French White, Natural Translucent Pink & Opalescent Top Gloss |
Backfill using Buider White, Natural Translucent Pink and Bright/Clear Top gloss |
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| Any questions or comments, please email Jess at luvnailz@gmail.com |
